Fragrance Fragments: Dahlia Noir, Prada Candy, and Bottega Veneta

Since I was showered with fragrance samples for Neiman Marcus Beauty Week, I thought it might be fun to give you a quick description of three that are among the samples in the Beauty Week tote.

Givenchy Dahlia Noir Eau de Parfum

A fantasy flower - the first fragrance developed under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, Dahlia Noir embodies the mysterious, singular radiance of a woman's graceful power. Dahlia Noir is both feminine and sensual thanks to its floral and powdery facets, but also powerful and captivating with its woody base notes. A couture fragrance all in pure lines, a return to supreme luxury. The quintessence of the Givenchy style.

By most accounts, I should like Givenchy's Dahlia Noir ($90 to $110). I'm not smitten. It's a powdery, dusty, chypre floral. With top notes of mandarin, pink pepper, and mimosa, heart notes of rose, iris, and patchouli, and base notes of sandalwood, vanilla, and tonka bean, it had potential. I had strolled by a free-standing exhibit at the store a few weeks ago, smelled a lovely floral, and asked for a sample. At that point, I should have realized that if I could smell the display that vividly, it might be a strong scent.

To my nose, it opens heavy and stays heavy for hours. I can smell the rose. I can smell the vanilla on dry-down. The patchouli isn't obnoxious, and the pepper makes it lively. What I don't "get" from Dahlia Noir is the opening of citrus/fruit notes. The mandarin and mimosa are missing in action for me.

It's too heavy for my tastes during its first two hours. It smells like an old-fashioned, heavy floral. In its third hour, it becomes rather pleasant, but I can't get past the first few acts of the production. All in all, it's nice enough, but I don't feel any need to buy it.

Prada Candy Eau de Parfum

Prada Candy ($80 to $108) is a different story! I wasn't expecting to like Prada Candy, but I do.

Prada Candy, the new feminine fragrance of Prada, enriches the Prada brand's fragrance universe with another vision: colorful, pop, and explosive. Prada Candy incarnates the new Prada woman: she's daring, sensual, full of life, and implosive. The perfume is named after this seductive and joyful girl who is running wild.

The top notes explode with caramel. Prada Candy is a gourmand delight. As it drys down, the heart, a powdery cocktail of musks delights with its softness. It smells like skin, only better. The base notes consist of vanilla and a "benzoin" overdose (if it's really a 12% concentration as reported, it's definitely a heavy dose).

Created by Daniela Andrier, Prada Candy is perfectly named. It opens with a flush of caramel candy. I envision a caramel chocolate (Fran's salted caramels to be specific), and I want to nibble on my arm . It's a luscious, edible fragrance. Who could resist? As it dries down, it becomes a soft, powdery, sensual fragrance - one that's extremely comfortable. Think hot chocolate. There's nothing particularly unique about it, but it's eminently likeable. That may read like a contradiction, but I can't detect anything about Prada Candy that's precedent-setting, as Prada's fashion often is. Despite that, I would purchase Prada Candy, if I had some extra money lying around.

Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum

I've already raved about Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum ($65 to $475). I adore it.

A complex and abstract mix of raw materials woven harmoniously. It is in the way of the weaving technique "intrecciato" associated with the brand Bottega Veneta, that master perfumers Michel Almairac and Amandine Marie have composed a singular, characterful fragrance.

From the very start, the olfactive identity of the brand appears through the original cross combination of plum and pink pepper, which brings brightness and depth. A strong and charismatic note of Sambac jasmine (variety of jasmine less animal and more floral), reflects in the heart the elegance of the "BV" woman. Harmonious contrast between modernity and tradition, this fragrance continues to radiate through its specific leather accord, symbol, and signature of Bottega Veneta fashion design.

I could live in Bottega Veneta's new fragrance. The scent is very feminine. Whether it's the association with fine leathers or by design, I smell a floral leather in the fragrance. It opens with a spicy note - the pepper, I'm sure - that departs the stage within seconds, leaving behind a soft floral. The floral notes dominate and remain with the fragrance until it fades into the skin. A leathery softness develops in the mid-notes and lasts for hours. I smell harmonious and pleasant memories. The scent is sensuous, soft, comfortable, and romantic. Never too assertive, just as Bottega Veneta's leather bags are conservatively elegant, Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum is a scent I could wear to sleep, one that relaxes me and make me dream of life's simple pleasures.

It's nice that the Beauty Week tote offers three entirely different samples. I'll bet one of them will strike your fancy. Have you tried them? Did you get your tote with samples? What did you think?

Ph0tos courtesy of Neiman Marcus

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Coming Attraction: Sisley Eau d'Ikar Eau de Toilette

Sisley's new Eau d'Ikar is, theoretically, a fragrance for men. After trying it, I'd call it a unisex fragrance that's going to appeal to many women. It's set to arrive at Sisley counters in October.

Eau d'Ikar embodies a poetic ambition...

• The deep desire in a man to fly, not in defiance of the heavens, but rather to rise above the ground (my father had it and passed it along to me)
• For lightness, intensity, and freedom
• Not for power, but for the elegant movement
• For the gentle wind and the passing of clouds
• For a carefree spirit and rising winds
• The ambition of the sun, to brush past its warmth and feel its light

This vibrant fragrance is rich in fine natural essences. The "star" essence is the lentiscus, a small tree that you can find in the Mediterranean islands. The vivacity of citrus notes illuminates lentisk essence with green and crisp notes of bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, and carrot seeds. Unexpected floral notes of iris, jasmine, orange pekoe tea are refreshed by reeds. Powerful dark wood notes strengthen the sensual notes of the heart of the lentisk: green cistus, sandalwood, and veitver root. All in all, it's a beautiful composition.

The bottle of Eau d'Ikar, designed by Bronislaw Krzysztof, is made of thick, fine glass. Light dances off its exterior. An abstract wing and a man's torso are carved in the glass.

Whether flying like a bird, shown in the promotional photo, or attempting as Icarus did (unfortunately unsuccessfully), the notion of defying the laws of gravity and taking flight is one that has enchanted man since the beginning of time. Sisley has given us a fragrance that offers a romantic lightness of being that evokes the freedom of flight. I love it!

Photo at top courtesy of Sisley; photo of Icarus courtesy of Frank Frazetta

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Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum

All of a sudden, my heart sings...



There are two short films for Bottega Veneta's new fragrance. One video stars Nine d'Urso, daughter of Inès de la Fressange, a muse herself. It was shot in South Florida and features walking on the beach and romance. Another video on the Bottega Veneta Web site sets the mood with sepia tones and soft music. Both films are enticing, although they might have been better shot in the Venetian countryside, the inspiration for the fragrance.



Founded in the 1960s, Bottega Veneta is one of the world's most prestigious luxury brands. Renowned for its craftsmanship and understated elegance, Bottega Veneta produces handbags, women's and men's ready-to-wear, and luggage and fine jewelery. Bottega Veneta was part of my life for 15-20 years when I carried no handbags and no totes other than the company's woven bags. They were so precisely made, they lasted for years. I was a BV gal! Then, unfortunately, two things changed: 1) They stopped making navy blue bags, my signature color, every season; and 2) prices soared. Suddenly, I found the prices creeping upwards at a more rapid rate than my income. I started purchasing less expensive alternatives. I still gaze at every season's new introductions and sigh (except for the broken weaves in the latest collection). The handbags remain a favorite to be admired in their cases at Neiman Marcus.



Imagine my excitement when I learned that Bottega Veneta was creating a fragrance! Earlier this summer, a high-profile launch party was held in Milan, attended by Coty Prestige officers and Bottega Veneta Creative Director Tomas Maier. I counted the days until I could get a whiff and hoped that the eau de pafum wouldn't be "just another department store fragrance." I shouldn't have worried.



Maier described the inspiration for the fragrance creation to WWD...

An old house in the beautiful countryside in the Veneto region of Italy, with rolling green hills, where we’re from. I envisioned a room with old wood floors, library walls, and leather-bound books with the windows open wide, the breeze coming in, and cut grass, hay, moss, garden flowers, growing through the room and everything mixing up. That’s where we started.



Fragrance composer Michel Almairac told The Moodie Report, “I was asked to create a fragrance that would mirror the brand, which would convey its feeling and atmosphere. That image of Bottega Veneta incorporates elements such as a countryside villa, the smell of furniture, food, and vegetation - in short, the whole ambience of Vicenza, where the brand was born. And as this is the very first Bottega Veneta fragrance, the parameters were broad, and I could give full rein to my imagination.”



A chypre juice was the ideal choice, Almairac felt, because it offered the most suitable texture to the fragrance. “Chypre is rich, elegant, and timeless, and very helpful in terms of conveying the abstract floral affect that Tomas wanted me to convey, in addition to the subtle leather tones,” he explained.



I started receiving samples of Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum ($65 to $475) from Neiman Marcus about a month ago, and I've been enjoying it immensely. The fragrance is described as a leathery, floral chypre. In line with Maier’s vision, it evokes, but doesn't transport me to, the Venetian countryside, with the gentle richness of leather crafted by a master artisan. I detect the flowers, but no hay. There's a subtle earthiness, but it's not dirty. It's more about softness - the softness of leather blended with a sophisticated floral.



There are four key notes in Bottega Veneta's Eau de Parfum: jasmine sambac, Brazilian pink peppercorn, bergamot, and Indian patchouli (yes, patchouli, and I like it). Additionally, the fragrance includes plum, benzoin, and oak moss. “The choice and quality of components is even more important when you have a simple formula such as this,” noted Almairac. “My company, Robertet, is known for using natural products. We treated the four ingredients of this fragrance to enhance or diminish certain qualities. For example, we treated the jasmine to give it a stronger character, but a lighter color.”



The fragrance's elegant flacon was inspired by Venetian (Murano) glass and the traditional Italian carafe. The soft, rounded curves sport are accented with Bottega Veneta's signature shades. The neck is adorned with a skin-colored leather ribbon clipped with a brunito butterfly. The underside of the bottle features Bottega Veneta's famous woven look.



The scent is very feminine. Whether it's the association with the fine leathers of my Bottega Veneta bags (yes, I still have them all) or by design, I smell a floral leather in the fragrance. It opens with a spicy note - the pepper, I'm sure - that departs the stage within seconds, leaving a soft floral. The floral notes dominate and remain with the fragrance until it fades into the skin. A leathery softness develops in the mid-notes and lasts for hours. I smell harmonious and pleasant memories. The scent is sensuous, soft, comfortable, and romantic. Never too assertive, just as Bottega Veneta's leather bags are conservatively elegant, Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum is a scent I could wear every day. It's a scent I could wear to sleep, one that relaxes me and make me dream of life's simple pleasures.



The fragrance will be exclusive to Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman starting this month. It's expected to arrive any day. In November, it will be available at all specialty stores globally. A body cream, body lotion, and shower gel will also be available. I'll be perfectly happy with one beautiful bottle of the eau de parfum. By all means, look for it!



Photo and quotes by Michel Almairac courtesy of The Moodie Report

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Elie Saab Le Parfum Eau de Parfum

Designer fragrances often come with a fantasy, and Elie Saab Le Parfum Eau de Parfum ($90 to $120) offers one that's immensely appealing. Who wouldn't love the photo of Anja Rubik, a wind-bown urban princess wearing a gorgeous gown designed by Elie Saab?



As a rule, my reaction to "just another department store fragrance" would be a huge yawn. Lately, though, I've discovered that a few of them are glorious. I had a "love at first whiff" reaction to Elie Saab Le Parfum, and my love has grown in the couple of weeks I've had it. Elie Saab's intent is to glorify women, to inject beauty into women's lives. Even if we don't have the means to purchase his glorious haute couture, his first fragrance is accessible.



Elie Saab Le Parfum is housed in a heavy glass bottle that's as exquisite as Elie Saab's evening gowns. Tasteful, elegant, and chic, the bottle was created by Sylvie de France. It conveys a resolutely modern beauty.



The fragrance was created for Elie Saab by the masterful perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who describes the fragrance as a light, woody floral. Orange blossom provides the centerpiece, tempered by cedarwood, which gives it a lovely softness. There are two jasmine absolutes among the notes: jasmine sambac and jasmine grandiflorum. They add a glorious depth to the orange blossoms. A white honey rose completes the floral design. The cedarwood heart is blended with patchouli, which absolutely stunned me. As a rule, I flee from patchouli. There are no sharp edges in this one. I'm stunned. I think I finally found the patchouli that appeals to fragrance mavens.



A video at this link describes the fragrance as an "ode to light," to a sun that's almost white in its gold brilliance - an intensely feminine, modern, and radiant fragrance. On my skin, it's a bright, fresh floral. It's as soft as a summer garden, yielding its scents to a light breeze that wafts a floral bounty through my windows. Elie Saab Le Parfum reminds me of the intoxicating scent of the fragrant hostas that I planted against my screened porch. When they bloom, it's hard to leave the porch as their white flower scent comes my way.



I knew when I finished this feature that The Non-Blonde was publishing her impressions last night. I refrained from reading Gaia's feature until I finished writing mine. Her always-extraordinary fragrance descriptions are unforgettable. You must read her review. We are both enjoying Elie Saab - for many of the same reasons. I think you will too.



I purchased my bottle at Neiman Marcus. I know it's available at Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue.



Photos courtesy of Elie Saab

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Chanel N°19 Poudré Eau de Parfum

When I was in graduate school in the early 70's, I took care of two crazy cats whose owners had gone to France on vacation. They brought me back a French thank-you gift, a bottle of Chanel N°19. It was such a luxury for a graduate student. Even better, I loved it!



I can't believe that I might have used the full bottle, but I can't find it. When a pack rat can't find a bottle of perfume, you know it has to be gone or buried where it doesn't belong (maybe in a box of books that made multiple moves with me?). If I still had that bottle, I could compare it to the newer, reformulated versions of N°19 - an activity I would find fascinating. Maybe I should go search the basement.



According to basenotes, the original had top notes of galbanum, bergamot, neroli, and hyacinth; middle notes of rose, orris, jasmine, narcissus, muguet, and ylang-ylang; and base notes of musk, sandal, oakmoss, leather, and cedarwood. My memories tell me it was a bright, fresh, zippy, direct green floral with a soft, powdery dry-down. At the time, more sophisticated analysis was the last thing on my mind. I was concentrating on my studies (and I was glad to be relieved of those crazy cats).



When I learned that Chanel would be introducing a new, supposedly more modern version, called N°19 Poudré ($85 or $115), I was delighted. I started haunting Chanel counters and stumbled on a tester bottle at Saks Fifth Avenue. Every time I stopped by that store, I sprayed. So, I had a few nice opportunities to test it before I got my own bottle.



It launched on August 19, Coco Chanel's birthday. Locally in the DC area, it is exclusive to Saks until October. I purchased mine from Loyd Cassler at Chevy Chase last Friday. I've worn it all weekend, and I'm delighted with it.



A few of us have chatted on Twitter about N°19 Poudré. There's a lot of interest. Because I can't get my hands on my original N°19, I will concentrate on my impressions of the new fragrance, with only a few recollections from those deep recesses of memory that a classic scent can summon.



N°19 Poudré is a powdery green floral that is far softer than the original. It is extremely pretty, but definitely less assertive. It's balanced, comfortable and easy to wear, and the iris dominates the other floral ingredients, like the jasmine. It's like a little sister to the original - in a good way, one that I think may attract a new audience.



The perfumer who created it, Jacques Polge, told WWD that it contains new, interesting musks. Poudre also said that iris rhizome, the central note in the new fragrance, is hard to source and can be affected, like many natural ingredients, by soil, climate, and the long, labor-intensive process that yields the oil. Chanel grew its own irises, Iris pallida and Iris germanica, in Grasse, France and combined old-time perfumery with new technology in producing N°19 Poudré. I think they succeeded in creating one of the prettiest iris fragrances I've tried in a long time.



The notes of N°19 Poudré include iris, neroli, galbanum, jasmine, white musk, vetiver, and tonka bean. There may be other notes. I've compiled these by reading many other blogs. Forget the notes, and what you'll sense is a fresh, soft, powdery, and very pretty floral. It's actually far less "modern" than the marketing had led me to expect. I find it old fashioned in an endearing way.



There is a beautiful and informative short film about N°19 Poudré and its development at Chanel's Web site. Anyone interested in this beautiful fragrance should watch it. You can purchase N°19 Poudré at Chanel or at Saks. In October, it will be available at all Chanel counters.



Photo at top courtesy of Chanel; old print in public domain; iris photo courtesy of blogger-index.com

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Jo Malone Wild Bluebell Cologne

In early July, I received a sample of the eagerly awaited Wild Bluebell Cologne ($55 or $110) from Jo Malone. The advertising campaign - a departure from previous Jo Malone campaigns that offered a minimalist's focus on the product, perhaps with some of the ingredients pictured for inspiration - had intrigued me. I found the model and the white bunnies entertaining in their depiction of English eccentricity along with the real thing, the bluebells.



No natural extract of wild bluebells exists. I don't think they have much of a scent. So the perfumer, Christine Nagel, imagined the scent and created its equivalent (in a lab, I assume). A green forest floor, complete with spring's majesty, the wild bluebell in the bottle is sweet, but not too sweet. The cologne opens with the fresh floral "bluebell" and clove; builds quickly to a soft heart of lily of the valley, eglantine (rose), and jasmine; and finishes with a soft base that combines white amber and musk.



I loved my sample. Although I normally detest clove in fragrances, it didn't "bloom" on my skin from the sample. Once I received my bottle of Wild Bluebell, though, I picked up the clove immediately (I often wonder if samples provide an exact representation of the full blend of a fragrance). Rather than refer to my sneak peek feature, I relied on my nose. My nose smelled a "spice" that disrupted the harmony of the other notes, leaving me wondering what odiferous transplant had volunteered its way into the garden.



The clove will make Wild Bluebell attractive to those who prefer to have the sweetness of their floral fragrances tempered by a little spice. To a gardener (and probably that white bunny), the ingredient is discordant, particularly since it remains with the scent through the heart. Wearing Wild Bluebell Cologne hasn't been the gentle trip down the wooded, wildflower-lined walking path that I had anticipated. It's an interesting experiment, and I appreciate the direction taken by the Jo Malone company in the last year to diversify its offerings. It's just not the best fragrance for my tastes.



Wild Bluebell is available in cologne, candle, body crème, and body and hand wash offerings - just in case you love it and want to live in it. You can find it at any Jo Malone counter or at the Jo Malone Web site. See what you think. My bottle was sent to me by a darling friend in the industry who is not associated with Jo Malone.



The native English bluebell is a threatened species. To help England stay carpeted with this flower, Jo Malone London made a donation to the Woodland Trust.



Photos courtesy of The Moodie Report and Jo Malone

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By Kilian Sweet Redemption Eau de Parfum

Composed for the "Temptations" theme of Kilian Hennessy's L’Oeuvre Noire series of 10 fragrances, Sweet Redemption Eau de Parfum ($225) is the end of the last chapter of Kilian's olfactory odyssey to "open a thousand doors in the memory," composed with the most expensive and rare essential oils. My lovely By Kilian representative at Saks Fifth Avenue, Ban Aljazrawi, had sent me a sample of Sweet Redemption many weeks ago. That's when I succumbed to the temptation. I eagerly awaited its introduction and was able to reward myself last week with my own bottle.



What if redemption was the ultimate temptation? The temptation to be redeemed after one has succumbed to the addictions of love and its prohibitions and the artificial paradises, discovered previously in Kilian's universe.



Inspired on one hand by Baudelaire's hommage to sweet and deep fragrances, yet on the other hand by the dark and mysterious poetry of Jim Morrison as he seemingly forebode his own demise, Sweet Redemption is a final bow to these cursed poets - a final commentary on the irresistible charm of the forbidden fruit that tempts us throughout the L'Oeuvre Noire series.



This redemption, this liberation, is intoxicating with its intensity - the innocence of orange blossom, the roughness of the sour orange leaf absolute, the sweetness of the vanilla absolute. The dry-down is composed with a strong balsamic - almost religious - accord built around myrrh, incense, and benzoin. This combination is meant to remind us that redemption is not a choice, but rather, a reward. Unless it becomes our last addiction?



Sweet Redemption has been something of an enigma for me. I find the orange notes incredibly evocative. I feel like a whole grove has been bottled: blossoms, fruit, bitter peel, the woody tree trunks, and the earth. The fragrance opens with all of those scents, wrapped into a rapturous symphony. Quickly, though, the edgy myrrh and incense make an appearance, taking me back to those "unfortunate" days of high mass, when priests waved burning incense toward the pews, leaving me desperately trying to suppress a cough. That's probably why I find incense an unwelcome note in fragrance, even when the "sophisticated noses" adore it.



As Sweet Redemption dries down, usually about an hour later on me, it totally loses the myrrh and incense, and reduces to a sweet memory of the orange grove. Even before I read its description on LuckyScent, I had written in my notes that the grove lingered, like a breeze might carry the scent to surrounding properties. Six to eight hours later, the scent remains, but is characterized by soft vanilla (not the scent that mall crawlers seem to enjoy, but a pleasant one).



The notes at the By Kilian counter are listed in groups, rather than as opening, heart, and dry-down notes.



Hesperide Note

Italian Bergamot Orpur Oil



Orange Notes

Bitter Orange Leaf Absolute

Orange Blossom Absolute

Fresh Orange Blossom Absolute

Italia Cytisus Absolute



Balsamic Notes

Cinnamyl Alcohol

Myrrh Resinoide Orpur

Opoponax Resinoid

Benzoin Laos Orpur



Sweet Note

Vanilla



Sweet Redemption is a mysterious fragrance to me. I think Greta Garbo might have worn it if she were alive. Known for her irresistible allure and beauty, but also for shunning publicity, Garbo personified a mystery that continues to capture our imaginations. Sweet Redemption does the same over an eight-hour period, leaving me wondering what secrets it has yet to reveal.



Sweet Redemption is gorgeously packaged. The box is nestled in a velvet sleeve with the K logo. The lacquered box with a lock (to its secret?) comes with a key attached by a black ribbon to the L’Oeuvre Noire story, printed elegantly as a loose-leaf mememto. The black bottle is nestled into a silk bed, redolent of luxurious black silk sheets. It would make an elegant gift - for yourself or someone you love.



The L’Oeuvre Noire story ends with Sweet Redemption, the scent of liberation. Sweet Redemption is available at Saks Fifth Avenue, LuckyScent, and ByKilian.com.



Photos courtesy of Saks Fifth Avenue and allposters.com

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CREED Original Cologne, a New Royal Exclusive

One of three new Royal Exclusive introductions from CREED, Original Cologne ($575) is being marketed to men. I can't figure that out. It's certainly a unisex scent. My first impression was, "Please God, send me a man who smells like this! I've been waiting all my life."



Original Cologne evokes men’s styles in Victorian England: clean grooming and tailored clothes - and lives made richer by quality goods of impeccable detail. Original Cologne wraps the client like a jacket stitched to his exact proportions, fitting and superb in every respect, a complement to his innate style and a statement of his high standing. Original Cologne has been compared to a burst of English mist, a fine and clean sensation on the skin like when a train blurs past, sending a gust of cooling moisture onto every pore, as in the 1844 J.M.W. Turner painting, “Rain, Steam and Speed.”



Kathy Shoreman and I have deemed it one of our favorite new introductions, even though it appears we weren't the target market. That won't stop us from wearing it. CREED guru Francesca Camacho at Neiman Marcus is wearing it too. I'm in good company. I want to meet the men who've purchased it (for themselves)!



Let's consider the notes. Original Cologne opens with a fizzy, zesty burst of lemon, Sicilian bergamot, and Italian grapefruit. As it dries down, it offers a penetrating rush of galbanum, sweet pear, and finest neroli. Are we reading masculine yet? The soft, comfortable base notes are ambergris, white musc, and rice powder. This translates into fresh and fruity, with a dash of flowers and a softness that will make anyone want to nuzzle it. It's simply divine. It has quickly become one of my favorite fruity fragrances. Every time I wear it, I gush.



Original Cologne is offered in a collectible, hand-blown Pochet glass bottle etched with CREED’s family crest. It's beautiful - classy - and would look great on anyone's dressing table. Its sculptural cap masks the perfect steel spray pump, rather than an open-neck pour, making it modern, fast, and easy to use.



Original Cologne is available at Neiman Marcus (featured in the men's fragrance section online), Bergdorf Goodman, and at the CREED Boutique. I know the price is high, but you can find a decant in one of many sizes at The Perfumed Court. Why do I keep falling in lust with expensive fragrances?



Photos courtesy of CREED and Wikipedia

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Liz Zorn Jasmine Summer Eau de Toilette Plus a Coming Attraction

After getting a sample of Jasmine Summer Eau de Toilette ($60) from Liz Zorn, I ordered it within days. I was smitten by the clean, light jasmine fragrance. It's perfect for summer days and for those of us who like light fragrances year round. Blended with the jasmine are notes of key lime, sweet fennel, tropical fruits, white jasmine, lily of the valley, coconut, plumeria, and the slightest hint of wild berries.

I had a chance to talk with Liz Zorn last week. I wanted to know more about her, and she kindly agreed to spend some time on the phone with me. Before I tell you more about Jasmine Summer, let me tell you a little about Liz.

Liz Zorn has been making fragrances since the 1970's. She dabbled as a hobby and had created custom fragrances for friends and acquaintances long before she started her fragrance business. She was a visual artist and painter; then she shifted her emphasis to our olfactory sense. Once she launched her company, her practice of visual arts began to take second place to perfumery among her passions. If you go to her Web site, you can find out much more about Liz.

Soivohle, or Art in a Bottle, was the first line Liz created. The Soivohle line consists of three distinct collections: Absolutes, her most concentrated essences; Demi-Absolutes, a high concentration eau de parfum; and the Eau de Toilette Collection. Jasmine Summer is a 2011 addition to the Eau de Toilette Collection.

Jasmine Summer sprang from Writing Lyrical Poetry, a Demi-Absolute that is a white flower fragrance laced with fruits. Inspired by Liz's grandmothers, who were strong, independent women who lived for their flower gardens. Liz wanted to do something similar to Writing Lyrical Poetry with Jasmine Summer, but make it more "approachable."

Liz said that Jasmine Summer is not complex, but I don't think it's simple either. It's interesting, light, and fun, but unique. To Liz, the key to Jasmine Summer is in its opening. Pops of citrus and tropical fruit lead the white flowers into bloom. At the heart of the fragrance is a little coconut. Liz said that coconut and other lactonic molecules can dull the brightness of a floral scent, so she used it sparingly as an accent. You won't smell suntan oil at the beach in Jasmine Summer.

The Egyptian and Indian jasmines are joined by citrus, a tropical fruit accord, and hints of cantelope and mango. They are not overpowering fruity additions. Liz used them with "a lot of constraint," diluting them so that no one note would overpower the flowers.

If the notes in Jasmine Summer read "divine" to you, it's because they are. What's most interesting to me, though, is that Jasmine Summer is unique. I have countless jasmine-based fragrances. Jasmine is one of my favorite white flowers. None of my other jasmine fragrances are like Jasmine Summer. It has that je ne sais quois essence that makes many of Liz's creations indescribable for me - one reason I wanted to talk to her.

Jasmine Summer is definitely ladylike. It reminds me of parasols, white flowers, and frilly frocks. It graces my body just as a brimmed summer linen hat would if white flowers were tucked into its band. It lingers far longer than many other eau de toilettes I wear.

I want to tell you something totally unrelated, but interesting, that Liz told me. She will be launching a men’s collection in a few weeks with two scents, Trancendental Musc and River Town Road - names she likes and had used for fragrances that are no longer made. The new ones are nothing like their namesakes. Liz wanted to develop new fragrances with the original quirkiness of the Absolutes that men have always liked. Transcendental Musc has an underlying sheer musk that runs through the entire fragrance, but the scent is based on orange flower and golden champaca flower. River Town Road is a modern spin on a bay rum scent. Liz used a Dominican bay rum that's rustic, along with a nice lavender absolute and lots of herbal notes. It's one of the her most complex fragrances, with well over 100 materials.

The Absolute Pour Homme Collection resulted from her customer friendliness. Even though Liz already makes fragrances men love, they usually want their own scents. Men shopping with their ladies often take a seat in her Cincinnati boutique. The Absolute Pour Homme Collection will get them out of their seats to sample, making the experience of visiting Liz a treat for all parties.

Back to Jasmine Summer, you can purchase a sample for $3.00, a 5-ml spray for $14, and a 35-ml spray for $60. I went for the largest size. It's a beauty. Head over to lizzornperfumes.com to explore!

Photo at top courtesy of Liz Zorn; Lady with a Parasol (1886) by Monet

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Ormonde Jayne Ta'if Perfume Collection

The romantic description of Ormonde Jayne's Ta'if fragrance tells it all.

A damask rose from Arabia. Ta'if, a town rising 5,000 feet above the shores of the Red Sea and overlooking the Arabian desert, is renowned for its plantations of Ta'if rose.

Ta'if by Ormonde Jayne is an intoxicating and audacious rose scent. This perfume dislikes daylight, preferring dusk, the night, parties, promises, and assignations. It is an opulent composition that makes a bold entrance and is confident enough to sweep everyone else to one side - a real belle of the ball. Ta'if is flamboyant, but also sophisticated - a torrid blend of saffron, pink pepper, rose, dark sappy tree resins, and broom, It is dynamic, daring, and madly in love with life.

I really can't describe Ta'if (varying prices) any better. While it's sultry, it's also perfectly acceptable for day wear. I received a sample of this incredible fragrance from Ormonde Jayne and fell in love instantly. Had I only had an entrance to make!

The top notes are pink pepper, saffron, and dates - all refined culinary pleasures. Combined, they enter the scene with a zippy contradiction between sugar and spice. The heart notes take over quickly. Some of my favorite florals edge the top notes out of the way. Rose oil, freesia, jasmine, and orange flower absolute are blended to emphasize the rose, but with a strong suggestion of the white flower essence. As Ta'if dries down, many hours after application, it becomes a soft memory, laden with broom and amber - both as comfortable as lounging on a lazy day.

Ta-if is a fragrance that will enchant floral lovers, making both rose lovers and white flower lovers swoon. It should be better known in the United States. Sure, all the fragrance gurus know it, but those of us who are just awakening to the pleasures of Ormonde Jayne and other European fragrances have much to discover. The first day I sprayed Ta'if on my body, I was stunned by its appeal - and that I had never tried it, based solely on its notes. I had bought several Ormonde Jayne fragrances earlier this year. One of them was Frangipani, a current favorite.

Ta'if is available in parfum, eau de parfum, bath and shower products, candles...you name it. I know of no U.S. source, but if you register at Ormonde Jayne's Web site, you'll find there are great special offers, including free shipping now and then. I am testing my way through several new-to-me fragrances in the line, and I'm having a blast.

Photo courtesy of Ormonde Jayne

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Jo Malone Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense

My favorite of the Jo Malone Intense Colognes, Iris & White Musk Cologne ($135) is not at all what I had expected when I first learned about the Intense Collection. As I wrote last year, before the collection was introduced, the Intense Collection was expected to appeal to customers who might connect with rich scents and Middle Eastern notes. The collection, which was blended by Christine Nagel of Fragrance Resources, was a departure for Jo Malone, right down to the black bottles. I feared there would be too much spice for my tastes.

I've tried all four of the Intense Colognes now, and I will be wearing Iris & White Musk, a blend of violet, Casablanca lily, white musk, tonka, and iris notes, said to be composed with beautifully controlled contrasts. I don't read contrasts gracing my senses. I detect a beautifully blended soft floral, without distractions or sharp edges.

Iris & White Musk may be a floral for fragrance fans who don't love florals. It's not sweet. It reminds me that flowers spring from the earth and that they are one with their surroundings. The scent lasts for hours on my skin, gracefully exiting without losing its soft reminder of the beauty of the garden - perhaps one in which the fragrance lingers, trapped by the layer of sultry, humid air in summer.

On Tuesday, I featured Rose Water & Vanilla Cologne Intense. It was the first one I tried. I like it, but it takes a backseat to Iris & White Musk for me. There are two more colognes in the Intense Collection.

• Amber & Patchouli, which has notes of amber, patchouli leaf, and guaiac wood, emphasizes patchouli with a supple, suede-like finish, resulting in a seductive, spicy, woody fragrance (definitely not for this patchouli hater)
  
• Oud & Bergamot, described as a fresh interpretation of the dark, hypnotic scent of oud, derived from the heartwood of the aquilaria tree, with additional notes of bergamot and an orange granite accord based on natural extracts of lemon and orange (I like it - it's fresh and lively)

If you are in the camp that has tired of Jo Malone's fragrances, once exclusive, but now seemingly everywhere, you should seek out the Intense Collection. It's a niche line within one that's familiar.

You can purchase the Cologne Intense fragrances at Jo Malone online. Of course, you can always call my friends Diana Foerster or David McCray (Jo Malone representative at Neiman Marcus at Tysons Galleria) or Kathy Shoreman at (703) 761-1600, ext. 3268. They are only getting 10 bottles of each scent, and then they will be gone.

Persian iris illustration above courtesy of specialcollections.library.wisc.edu; photo courtesy of Jo Malone

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Jo Malone Rose Water & Vanilla Cologne Intense

I had given up that we would ever see Jo Malone's Cologne Intense Collection locally. I had previewed it in April of last year, even though it seems like only months ago. Now, the four fragrances have arrived at Neiman Marcus at Tysons Galleria.

Cologne Intense draws its inspiration from the Middle East and was expected to appeal to Jo's Malone's Middle Eastern customers, with scents that are familiar, but mixed in novel ways. Last year, Dominic De Vetta, Jo Malone’s Global General Manager, told WWD that the launch of Cologne Intense was part of a company-wide strategy to respond to regional consumer preferences. “We wanted to start playing with deeper, richer ingredients, and we wanted to offer more consumers that experience in a very Jo Malone and modern way,” he said, adding the collection was created to appeal to “fragrance connoisseurs” as well as the brand’s Middle Eastern clientele.

A collection of distinctive scents inspired by the rich, sensory experience of the Middle East. A place of immense beauty with ornate architecture, vibrant colors, and intense scents from the Spice Routes of the vast trade network, the Middle East has a liveliness rooted in history.

Set to debut last July, the collection was only to be sold in about 35 stores globally, including doors in Paris, London, and New York. The collection, which was blended by Christine Nagel of Fragrance Resources, includes familiar Middle Eastern notes with a modern interpretation: two florals, one spicy, and one woody. Now, the collection is available at Jo Malone's Web site and select Neiman Marcus doors.

I was privileged to try all four fragrances. Today, I'd like to tell you about Rose Water & Vanilla Cologne ($135). Billed as a twenty-first century translation of the traditional Arabian Rose Mokhalat, imbued with a modern Jo Malone edge, the rose and vanilla are complemented by neroli overlaid with the sweet, floral woodiness of petitgrain, and undertones of smoky agarwood.

Rose Water & Vanilla is indeed intense. The dominant note, from application to dry-down about eight hours later, is vanilla. It's a soft vanilla, unlike the ubiquitous vanilla of candle shops and cheap fragrances in mall stores. The rose water and neroli give it a slight floral opening, but the woody notes linger.

The packaging reflects a "darker," richer spectrum for Jo Malone's fragrances. Following the rules of fragrance mixing, you will want to spray Cologne Intense first, and then apply one of your lighter scents to "make it your own." Now that I've had a chance to wear Rose Water & Vanilla, I think I'll give it a Red Roses overspray to customize the scent to my floral-loving nose. Then I'll try one of the fruits, perhaps Grapefruit. I'll have fun playing.

I'll let you know what I think of the others after I've had a chance to try them. Next up on my list is Iris & White Musk, a blend of violet, Casablanca lily, white musk, and iris notes. I should have tried it first, but I've been on a voyage of discovery. I promise, I'm not morphing Best Things in Beauty into a fragrance blog, but I'm taking you along on my journey.

You can purchase the Cologne Intense fragrances at Jo Malone online. Of course, you can always call my friends Diana Foerster (Jo Malone representative at Neiman Marcus at Tysons Galleria) or Kathy Shoreman at (703) 761-1600.

Photo courtesy of Jo Malone, vanillaimporters, and hellotrade.com

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Liz Zorn Anniebelles Rose

Anniebelles Rose is one of Liz Zorn's Soivohle Absolutes, the fragrances that started it all for Liz Zorn, an Ohio-based independent perfumer who creates natural, niche fragrances of exceptional quality (and luxury prices). Zorn's Soivohle Absolutes are rich, elegant, and uncompromising creations that she calls "Art in a Bottle." As a painter, she is spot-on with that characterization.

Zorn is especially proud of the Absolutes - for good reason. In many instances, she has created special tinctures and accords for just one scent. Each of the Absolutes has a solid underlying story line: a song, a novel, a painting, says Zorn - all wrapped up into one ephemeral creation.

The Soivohle Absolutes have heady concentrations ranging from 30-50%. The most luxurious fragrances in her line, they are available in both Modern Natural and Mixed Media Blends. The Absolutes are available in two sizes, the mini 4.5 ml chunky glass flacons that I purchased ($60) and the snazzier 15 ml (1/2 oz) flacon pictured here. Samples are available for the undecided.

When I found out about Liz Zorn, I ordered several of her Absolutes. It was a reader, Lovethescents, who mentioned Honeysuckle Bird when I wrote that I love honeysuckle. I still haven't figured out that fragrance, trying to identify the note that overwhelms the florals - to my nose. Is it the moss? I doubt it, but I have no idea. I can't get past that note to enjoy the honeysuckle, lily of the valley, wild strawberries, rose, and jasmine.

On the other hand, Anniebelles Rose reached out and grabbed ahold of me. Termed a mixed-media scent, meaning it's about more than the rose, it's a lovely fresh rose with the green edges of the leaf and thorn. Zorn's description says it's accompanied by spices and a hint of carnation - and inspired by a sweet yet fiery lady cat with long red hair. How could I not love it? A cat and roses? Zorn must have known this cat lady would find it irresistible.

At first blush, the spice in Anniebelles Rose worried me. A spicy, pungent opening note overwhelms the rose for all of two minutes. I read at Fragrantica that the spice is cinnamon, a note I can't tolerate for any length of time (I hold my breath and run past Cinnabon shops). Cinnamon would explain my initial fear on first dab (would I hate the scent?). I realize that most people adore cinnamon. If there's cinnamon in Anniebelles Rose, it's a teaser. I read at another blog (can't remember where) that Anniebelles Rose gets its sharp top note from blackcurrant buds, though it may have some bitter galbanum too. I don't know! I don't detect any of those notes. I do know that the top note doesn't please me. Could it be clove? I need to ask Zorn what it is - if it's not a trade secret.

Fortunately, no more than two minutes after application, the top note exits stage left, disappearing like a ghost who leaves me wondering, "Was he here?" With the fleeting, ghostly (ghastly?) top note gone, Anniebelles Rose has a soft, powdery, green rose heart and finish that's enormously pleasing to this rose fragrance lover. The rose persists for hours, leaving me sublimely happy, mentally sitting on a bench in a rose garden. On "deep dry-down," when there's barely any fragrance left, I smell something like amber and/or vanilla, but that's just a haphazard guess. The rose has departed the stage, leaving behind a pleasant soft reminder - perhaps a petal or two. I'm not a fragrance guru. I'm learning and will be for years.

Anniebelles Rose is a soft fragrance, characterized by the regal rose that has inspired perfumers, artists, writers, and other romantics - all impassioned by the lure of this flower with its many personalities. Zorn has created a modern rose, one that will please floral lovers who love the tradition (and scent) of the rose, but don't want to smell like their grandmothers.

Did Anniebelle love roses? Only Liz Zorn knows. Even the pricing is discreet. Select the scent that interests you on Zorn's Web site, look at the bottom of the screen, and you'll find a drop-down with all of the fragrances, sizes, and prices. For a very modest price, you can order samples, which makes it easy to select before you commit. I couldn't wait!

Update from Liz Zorn (via Twitter): Thank you for the lovely review; the dominant top notes in Anniebelles Rose are Bergamot, Galbanum. and Anise... The perfume also contains pandanus attar, which is a tad pungent, but you don't get that right out of the bottle, no cinnamon.

Third update from Liz, also via Twitter, a photo of Anniebelle herself below.Photos courtesy of Liz Zorn, White Flower Farm, and pawschicago

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Cartier Baiser Volé Eau de Parfum

Has anyone been able to try Cartier Baiser Volé Eau de Parfum ($100-$145)? Currently, it's a Nordstrom Anniversary exclusive, but it will be rolled out to most of the world in September. I could use your advice.

Read this description, provided by WWD and tell me how one can "imagine" the fragrant lily into being.

For Baiser Volé’s juice, Cartier in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent created a lily soliflore by imagining what the whole flower - including its leaves, petals, and pistil - could smell like.

“There is no lily oil or lily absolute,” said Laurent, who wanted to introduce a floral scent in Cartier’s fragrance collection. “But I didn’t want it to be the 1,001^st floral floriental, and I didn’t want to add a new floral composition.” Instead, Laurent likened wearing Baiser Volé to having on a necklace of lilies.

Lilies are among my favorite flowers. Their divine fragrance can light up a room. Just thinking about them makes me want to wander over to my favorite florist and buy a few Stargazers, beautiful pink hybrids that I've grown in my garden the past. Their scent is so unmistakable, I'm not sure how one could re-invent it.

Baiser Volé, meaning "Stolen Kiss," is the expression of love according to Cartier. A story of pure passion told through the lily, a strikingly feminine and rare flower. Baiser Volé is a pure floral fragrance, reflecting all its perfection as it opens, fresh, floral, and powdery. It sounds like heaven in a bottle. I fear I'm going to "need" it, and with a mega-sized CREED purchase this month, I may end up in fragrance jail.

Should I or shouldn't I order it without a whiff? Surely one of you knows! Or, if you are headed to Nordstrom, please sample it and let me know. I'm turning the table on you.

Photo courtesy of Nordstrom; quote from WWD

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New in the United States: CREED White Flowers

Occasionally, I'll find a fragrance that transports me to an earthly paradise - one that's teaming with flowers I love. I'll want to bathe in it, live in it, revel in it. The scent makes me forget every little anxiety and focus on the magnificence of a hidden garden suddenly revealed.

CREED's new White Flowers (8.4 oz, $575) is one of those fragrances. The scent is magnetic - drawing in my nose like hummingbirds are attracted to the precious drops of nectar in brightly colored flowers. Instead of a brightly colored paradise, CREED has created one with sublime white flowers, one of the most enchanting white flower fragrances I've worn. White Flowers awakens my sense of smell. It alerts me to a world of my dreams, one I could describe, but you might think I've lost it.

French master perfumer Olivier Creed created White Flowers, new to the Royal Exclusives collection, in bottles CREED considers as collectible as art. I'm not sure the bottle will rival my Frank Stella favorite, even though it is lovely. I'm trying to retain some sense of reality, even though Creed selected hand-picked ingredients from our world to imagine a world that is beyond reach. "Serene and composed, White Flowers is a voyage into spirit and dream." Somehow, that sentence seems perfect.

The fresh floral composition opens with Parma violet leaves, green apple, and lemon from Calabria. At its heart, Italian and Moroccan jasmine, light geranium, and Bulgarian rose seduce. The soft base notes are musk, Indian sandalwood, and narcissus (the narcissus an unusual base note to me). The scent and its aura are transitory. I find White Flowers lasts for about four hours on my skin, giving me an excuse to apply it again during the day for another trip to paradise. A few nights ago, I went to sleep wearing it, sure to have sweet dreams.

The elegant White Flowers hand-blown Pochet glass bottle etched with CREED’s crest has a cut-glass cap that reveals an open-neck pour. Fortunately, CREED offers a complimentary white fabric pump for those of us who prefer a fine mist. Once I can spray with abandon, White Flowers may transport me to another world for a few extra hours.

So far, I'm living with a large sample. My bottle will arrive at Neiman Marcus this month, so I'm waiting for Francesca Camacho, one of the finest fragrance experts I've ever encountered in a department store, to get her stock. You can purchase White Flowers today, though, at CREED's Web site if you can't wait a week or two for your CREED counter or neimanmarcus.com to offer it. The CREED Boutique will begin shipping White Flowers tomorrow. It is already available in France.

How I wish Roberto Ferreira, National CREED Educator and Curator of the CREED Collection, were here this week! I'd love to hear his thoughts in this new addition to the CREED collection. I'm so impressed with White Flowers, I'm almost speechless. All week, I've tried to engage my right brain to summon the words to describe this gorgeous fragrance.

Photo at top courtesy of CREED; narcissus photo by Best Things in Beauty; jasmine photo courtesy of planfor.fr

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Sneak Peek: Jo Malone Wild Bluebell Cologne

Jo Malone's Wild Bluebell Cologne is set to launch in September. The feminine scent was celebrated at an exclusive media dinner at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s in May. Ever since I read about Wild Bluebell, I've wanted to get my hands on it. This week I got my wish. I was privileged to receive a sample.

The advertising campaign is a departure - and a welcome one, I think - from previous Jo Malone campaigns that offered a minimalist's focus on the product, perhaps with some of the ingredients pictured for inspiration. The new Global Creative Director, James Gager, envisioned a model, the whimsical and bewigged "Wild Bluebell," in a fairy tale setting, complete with white rabbits. I'm not sure whether the central character, the model, or the white bunnies were more entertaining to me. It may have been the adorable (and apparently faux) bunnies. The campaign was shot by British photographer Tim Walker and depicts English eccentricity along with the real thing, the bluebells.

The cologne itself is the best Jo Malone introduction in a long time - in my humble (and unsophisticated) opinion. I'm not a fragrance taste maker, and my nose may have a deficit. Although Wild Bluebell supposedly opens with clove among its notes, I do not smell clove. Normally, I dislike clove in a fragrance. It's spicy and belongs on a ham! No matter, there are enough sources that say there's clove in Wild Bluebell, so I'll go with the concept and tell you. The clove apparently tempers the sweet florals with which it's blended.

No natural extract of wild bluebells exists. I don't think they have much of a scent. So the perfumer, Christine Nagel, imagined the scent and created its equivalent (in a lab, I assume). A green forest floor, complete with spring's majesty, the wild bluebell in the bottle is sweet, but not too sweet (like Sakura Cherry Blossom is). The cologne opens with the fresh floral "bluebell" and clove; builds quickly to a heart of lily of the valley, eglantine (rose), and jasmine; and finishes with a soft base that combines white amber and musk. Spicy? Not to my nose. Beautiful? Absolutely! There's something green in the mix, but I'm not sure what.

This lovely cologne will be mine - just as soon as Neiman Marcus receives the product. Until then, I will have to ration my sample (unless I receive the second one an industry friend offered me - I need to pester him). I love Wild Bluebell. Even though it's scheduled for an early September arrival, beauty products have a way of arriving a little early. Wild Bluebell will be a perfect cologne to wear right away. Not only that, there will be a body and hand wash, body cream, and candle to delight us. You'll find it at Jo Malone online and at Jo Malone counters.

The native English bluebell is a threatened species. To help England stay carpeted with this flower, Jo Malone London made a donation to the Woodland Trust. I like that - another reason to purchase!

Photos courtesy of The Moodie Report

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A DOZEN ROSES, New Fragrance Collection Exclusive to Neiman Marcus

A DOZEN ROSES, a fragrance collection inspired by the emotions that roses can evoke, will launch exclusively at Neiman Marcus on July 17. Roses have inspired poets, artists, designers, and perfumers, of course. Now, they have inspired the fragrances of A DOZEN ROSES - modern, eclectic, and sexy fragrances created with a passion for art, perfumery, and unique bottle designs.

The creative fragrances are luxurious, delightful, and inspiring, spotlighting their shared rose essence uniquely. They may even win over some who have forsworn rose scents. The perfumers were given free rein to create the fragrances in the collection based on original artwork and the emotion of roses that inspired them. The results are artisanal scents, themselves works of art. Each original fragrance is imbued with 100% natural rose absolute essence wrapped in a complex, contemporary blend.

A passion for roses in art is showcased on the front and back of each fragrance bottle in the collection, paying homage to the beauty of the rose. Works of art themselves, the bottle designs evoke complex emotions and passions similar to the scents within.

A DOZEN ROSES is launching with three unique fragrances - each developed by a female perfumer at Givaudan. Although they share a signature rose absolute, the fragrances are very different.

Shakespeare in Love is a warm, comfortable scent, meant for the sweet, down-to-earth lady. She drinks red wine, lives in cashmere sweaters, and enjoys staying in on the weekends. It's a warm scent, luscious with jasmine, gardenia, and fresh pear, blended with creamy woods and vanilla, with a heart of blush rose and A DOZEN ROSES' signature rose absolute. Shakespeare in Love comes in a royal blue bottle.

Gold Rush is a rush of ecstasy - a sexy, rich scent, meant for the wild, confident gal. This gal drinks tequila, loves Kiki de Montparnasse lingerie, and spends her weekends at cocktail parties. Gold Rush is a blend of blackberry, neroli, and ylang ylang layered with the richness of bittersweet chocolate and ebony woods, all wrapped with the aura of the gold rush rose and the collection's signature rose absolute. This sultry fragrance comes in a black bottle highlighted by yellow.

Iced White is a clean, fresh scent - edgy and effervescent - meant for the cool, natural gal. She drinks gin and tonics, dresses simply in white cotton, and enjoys spending time outside. Iced White sparkles with a brisk mix of white on white: white peony, white primrose, and osmanthus. It cools down with vanilla, white musk, and rose absolute. Iced White was captured in a white bottle, accented by white, green, and violet.

I had an opportunity to try all three scents before this month's launch, and I am smitten! It would be hard for me to select only one. Sophisticated florals, the three fragrances are all captivating. They fall into that "I could live in these!" category of my fragrance collection.

I do have a favorite that might surprise you. It certainly surprised me. I would best be described as having a Shakespeare in Love personality. I do love red wine, and I'm likely to hang with the cats on the weekends. The divine Gold Rush captured my heart, even though I'm not a wild, tequila-drinking party lover. I was in my younger days; perhaps some vestige of those crazy days lies dormant in my personality.

Gold Rush will appeal to men - I have no doubt - but it's also for a confident woman, one who knows what she likes and isn't afraid to make a statement. While all three draw my nose to my arm, with Gold Rush I detect notes that are familiar. Rose, neroli, and ylang ylang are among my favorites. Enlivened with a thoroughly intoxicating blackberry and warmed by the chocolate and ebony woods, the familiar notes are suddenly new.

It's almost a tie between the other two for my affection. I like them for different reasons. Iced White is clean and fresh, with a powdery dry-down that I adore. Shakespeare in Love snags me as it settles in. The soft vanilla, paired with rose, is comforting.

The fragrances have arrived at the Neiman Marcus doors listed below, but are not scheduled to be available in store until July 17. I suspect you can sample the testers if you ask.

You can enjoy the passion, art, and perfumery of all three and decide which one you'll take home. Each 3.4-oz. fragrance is priced at $95. You will be able to purchase it at neimanmarcus.com (available now) and the following Neiman Marcus locations.

Neiman Marcus Doors
Beverly Hills
San Francisco
Coral Gables
Atlanta
Honolulu - Ala Moana
Chicago - Michigan Avenue
Chicago - Northbrook
Las Vegas
Short Hills
Dallas - North Park
Dallas - Willow Bend
Fort Worth
Houston Galleria
Newport Beach
Tysons Galleria

Photos courtesy of A DOZEN ROSES

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L'Artisan Verte Violette Eau de Toilette

Every so often, I "gamble" on a fragrance, ordering without a sample. I don't always know the line, although I knew L'Artisan when I purchased Verte Violette Eau de Toilette ($145 or $57). L'Artisan created two of my favorite orange blossom scents, both limited-editions from annual blossom harvests. I selected Verte Violette for two reasons: it was on sale, and it sounded enticing.

Described as a haunting still life of violet leaves, flowers, and stems, Verte Violette appeared to combine two genres I love, florals and greens, in a single scent. Created by Anne Flipo and launched in 2000 for L'Artisan Parfumeur, Verte Violette is a union of the green note of leaves with the fresh powdered note of the violet flower. There is a little darkness too (very little), a touch of the forest floor, shadows, and flickering sunlight amid the sweetness. Iris notes deepen the delicacy and iridescence of the powder as Verte Violette lies softly on the skin, making this haunting take on violet beautiful on the skin.

I learned at Now Smell This that the notes are violet leaves, raspberry leaves, rose, heliotrope, cedar, iris, and white musk. The notes promised a fragrance that was soft and relatively uncomplicated - a plus when you're gambling.

I could not be more pleased with Verte Violette! When it arrived, I sprayed it on my arm immediately to get a first impression. I feel in instant love. I've been wearing it ever since. Violets have a delicate fragrance. They are a scent for a lady - one who wants to be remembered for her femininity, one who would have worn white gloves and carried a parasol in earlier times.

Verte Violette is, to me, more floral than green. It's definitely soft and powdery (not dusty, though), a quality I love. There's something about powdery florals that reminds me of heirlooms, precious items passed from one generation to the next, preserved to allow their contemporary holders to experience the treasures of their ancestry.

Eau de toilettes suit those looking for a light, natural scent that will complement the skin, never overpower it. Eau de toilettes were originally designed as refreshing body splashes to help people wake up, as part of their morning toilette. However, Verte Violette is not a bracing scent. It will awaken only your senses, so make sure to spray some on your arm to give your nose as much pleasure the fragrance will give those near you. I'll bet you'll find your nose diving in now and then.

Verte Violette lasts on my skin for eight hours, surprising for an eau de toilette. The dry-down is subtle. The cedar that graces the dry-down reminds me the lingering soft fragrance of a cedar fence, months after its installation. The powdery violet never departs. I can still smell it late in the afternoon. All in all, perfect!

Right now, Verte Violette is on sale at L'Artisan. You can purchase the 50 ml spray for $57. For some reason, I feared that meant it was about to be discontinued. Now, I need - seriously need - the 100 ml bottle just in case it's L'Artisan's intention to recall this beautiful fragrance. This is one heirloom that has joined the antiques among my own treasures.

Photos courtesy of L'Artisan and Wild Violets for Mother's Day painting by artist Paul Wolber

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